We have enjoyed beautiful weather and an abundance of butter over the last several days in Brittany. Tonight, as he tasted my crepe with salt butter caramel, Scott coined his latest bon mot: "It's butterful." Yes, to sum up Brittany in a word, it is butterful.
We started in Dinan, a town we visited during a downpour a few years ago that we wanted to see on a dry day. Last time we were there we bought personalized ice cream bowls painted with the names, "Mallory" "Paul" and "Stephanie". They did not have a "Scott". There is still no "Scott" bowls - although Marie-Victoire, Tanguy, Serge and Andreas are all readily available. Scott finally decided to go ahead and get one labeled simply "Moi".
We continued on to Erquy, where we stopped in a little place for lunch called "Relais St. Aubin". We ate on the terrace and watched the golden retriever, the black lab and the little yippy dog sleep under the tables during the two hour lunch. Scott was in heaven with his main course of duck wings with gingerbread (I know it sounds strange.... but it was amazingly good) After lunch we visited Cap Frehel and the nearby Fort La Lotte.
Next we began our drive to Paimpol where were were going to stay the night at the Maison de Kervig. We stopped at the Abbaye de BeauPort on the outskirts of the town. The abbey is mostly a ruin, with hydrangeas blooming in what was once the church. In the 1500's it was an important place greeting pilgrims from England who came by boat to begin a long pilgrimage walk to Santiago de Compestola on the far northwestern part of Spain. We had dinner at a cafe in the port of Paimpol called L'Islandais where we had crepes and Breton cider while being serenaded by a guy plaing the guitar and singing French songs that all of the others in the restaurant knew the words to and sang along with.
The next night were were staying at the Logis du Stang just outside of Quimper, so on the advice of our hosts at Maison de Kervig we visited the part of the coast that they assured us was the most beautiful in Brittany. Well, we still haven't seen all of the coastline, but as far as I can tell the area was absolutely beautiful. We visited Le Gouffre and the nearby "Pointe du Chateau" and we were the only people there.
Today, we visited the Pointe du Raz and Pointe du Van on the peninsula to the west of Quimper then we drove to Vannes where we visited the old medieval town that was vaguely reminiscent of Strasbourg with it's half-timbered houses and St. Malo with its ramparts. On our way to our hotel we passed a "Monkey Forest". We did not stop, but I speculated about a man in a yellow hat running the place (because the Monkey on the sign looked like Curious George). When we drove by Scott said, "I don't see any monkeys". I told him, "That can't be it -- there are no nets to keep the monkeys in." To my surprise, there was a brochure for the "monkey forest" at our hotel -- it is a place where you ride ziplines -- you are the monkeys in the forest.... There are no real monkeys. Guess the french think of a monkey forest differently than I do.
Tonight we ended up on the southern coast (the cote d'amour) in Pornichet, where we had our crepes and, yes, everything was butterful. Tomorrow we leave Brittany, having barely seen anything in four days, and head southwest to the Dordogne. We won't have internet for another 4-5 days, so we'll update you then.